Tag Archive | fashion

So I’ve been playing with paper dolls (Reiassan fashion…)


And I made up a bunch of them to fit This paper doll to see if I could get the layering down.

…there really should be at least one more skirt layer…

This is Rin-Era, someone working in a middle-status job, like a city bureaucrat and –I just realized I didn’t check the buttoning side–

Oh, good. they all button to the right hip. Even if there’s a sort of excessive amount of decorative buttoning.

I tell you, button-maker has to be a high-status job in Reiassan.

Edited to add: http://aldersprig.livejournal.com/photo/album/3134?page=1 the whole scrapbook!

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Some notes on clothing in Calenta/Reiassan

I’m working on a tiddlywiki/setting bible, which meant pulling out all my old notes on the setting here, on the old wiki, everywhere, and beginning to compile them.

And then I realized most of the clothing notes, esp. for Rin/Girey era, were in my head and had evolved mightily.


The basic unit of Calenyen clothing is the kiparrie* (orig. Qitari before I realized I didn’t have a Q…). This garment has a high band collar, either split on one side or split in the middle with an asymmetrical cut going off to one armpit (Chef’s coat, cheongsam).

The side the shirts close on indicates skilled worker vs. unskilled labor.

The garment is fitted at neck, chest, and shoulders; sometimes it is fitted down as far as the hips and sometimes it is looser, even baggy. It is worn down to the knees over full pants (tozhyu) or a full skirt (kanzhyu) (except in very warm weather, when it is sometimes worn over very short pants), and it (and the pants or skirt) is almost always worn in layers.

The number of layers is dictated by weather (In summer, this can come down to an undershirt and undershorts and a vest-like over-kiparri with, probably, a light pair of overshorts) and by formality. Layers in deep winter or exceedingly formal situations can number from four to ten.

* This, like “kimono”, is a generic term, with any number of specific terms depending on shape, length of hem and sleeve, purpose, cut of collar, etc…

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Steam!Callennan (Callennian?) costuming: Headgear and link

[personal profile] inventrix has a post on Imperial robes here. Also check out her tumblr for sketches.

Head Coverings:

I *like* head coverings. But I can’t imagine the faith of the Callennan as I’ve been thinking of it having a head-covering modesty thing going on.
On the other hand, the North of Reiassan is *cold*

This is the picture that got me thinking in the direction of head coverings

This is richer and prettier

Massively rich head covering http://cdn9.wn.com/pd/47/75/e86ecff41aa13dffb079f0335a3a_grande.jpg

I can see this comign from something designed for warmth:

I can see this style of hate coming into fashion easily: http://veneroida.com/wp-content/uploads/2010/09/Stylish-Head-Covering-For-Cancer-Patients.jpg
It sort of echoes theshape of the Russian fur hat: http://www.bigfurhats.com/servlet/the-754/Russian-Hat.–Fur/Detail

And, for something a bit different, I really like the third one down here – http://off-thebeatentrack.blogspot.com/2009/05/art-of-african-headwraps.html
and here – http://4.bp.blogspot.com/_TZBVJrG6muk/SRRv7l6bY9I/AAAAAAAABds/aCIsq8GRE0Y/s1600-h/gele.jpg
and here http://www.instructables.com/id/How-to-tie-a-Nigerian-Gele-using-Aso-oke/

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A fashion History of Reiassan, a loose blather @freosan @inventrix

To describe the fashion of Reiassan, I need to describe, quickly, the history of the two people of that continent.

The primary race, called the Callennan (or Callanthe, before I started conlanging and realized they didn’t have a -th) … ((some of their history is listed here)) … started as goat-people and, over centuries, slowly some of them ended up joining, as a culturally oppressed minority, the people who we know as the Bitrani, on the east coast of the continent I’m calling Homeland.

A group of Bitrani and some Callennan colonized the continent known as Reiassan and, some 50-100 years into this colonization, a shifting climate made the trip between the two continents no longer feasible, rendering the Reiassani independent of the empire back home.

500 years of war bring us to the era of Rin & Girey.
Another 1000 years of completely uncharted brings us to the Steam-Callenia era.

And now what little I know about the Callennan fashion. First, historically.

Okay! So they started out, the proto-goat-people
((This is a good time to note that their goats are pony-sized and riding animals))
wearing essentially felted wool short-shorts and vest.

The person woman who figured out linen undergarments is a cultural hero.

I figure being stranded on another continent put back their sartorial development a bit as they spent a century or so just trying to survive in a suddenly-cold world.

I have some early notes on clothing here.

In the Rin/Girey era, men and women alike wear:
a qitari, a tunic-like shirt buttoned to one side with a short mandarin collar. The side the shirt is buttoned on as well as the material and embroidery on this layer indicate status and wealth
This shirt goes to mid-hip and has flared sleeves just past the elbow

Under that, a similar shirt, slightly longer in hem and with fitted sleeves to the wrist. Wrist and hem are elaborately decorated in embroidery, ribbon, beading… depending on the region.

(more layers may be placed between these for ceremonial purposes or in winter

Under that, a knitted tube of goat wool from underarm to hip – essentially, an undershirt.

Under that, women bind their breasts.

On the lower half, men and women alike will wear flowing pants, split skirts, or skirts, also in at least two layers. Soft-soled boots and gloves or mittens complete the outfit; I haven’t figured out headwear yet.

And then, steam era:

Okay! So, if Rin-and-Girey era is Roman-era technology (Mid-Rome), Steam-Callennan is, well, Steamy. Fashion probably has a wider range from farmer to princess.

Farmer probably wear much what their ancestors wore.

[note: must figure out when the Homeland continent rediscovered Reiassan, or vise-versa]

High fashion, then: keeping the layered look, the love of bright colors, and the asymmetry, probably still a riding culture for many people, although carriages exist. If I think about this, I end up thinking of something Loli, which isn’t quite what I’m looking for.

Side track: The Callennan ideal body type is broad-shouldered, medium-hipped, with high, medium breasts (not huge, that is) one women and long dark hair on both. Men are expected to be broad-chested and not heavy/fat.

What I’m picturing: A very fitted wastcoat/bodice as a top layer, with the same side buttoning, but a dipped down neckline, coming up to high, folded-over collars. This would come down to the hips.

Under that, much as in earlier times, a shirt with flared sleeves over either an undershirt somehow done elaborately or several more flared bells and then and undershirt (or one middle layer with ruffles) and flared pants or skirts in several layers, over firmer boots, possibly in dyed leather.

The small corner of culturally-Bitrani people wear duller colors, maybe a lot of white, since they’re still more Southern, in less layers.

ETA: Climate
The capital, Lannamer, is like… a bit colder than Toronto. Coastal, but protected, but north-cold. The far South is a bit like the Carolinas. And in Steam-Era they do have some sort of indoor heating.

EETA: Etc.

Right-buttoned indicates skilled, left-buttoning indicates unskilled.
Curly hair is considered exotic the way red hair is in modern US.

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Wordlbuilding – stealing from other languages fail.

When figuring out what to call the shirt-garment worn by the Callanthe people in my Reiassan setting, I decided to name it a qitari, since it was a combination of a Chinese qipao and a Turkish entari. I was pronouncing this kee-tar-ree

Something we were watching on TV yesterday had a qi word, pronounced chee- something. And I said, “am I pronouncing my made-up word wrong?”

A little Googling later, I determined that yes, yes I was: http://qipao.info/

So it’s a chee-tari.

Cool. 🙂

P.S. There will be writing here again soon, I promise.

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Notes on Fashion & Status

First: The Callanthe like bright colours, and they like to mix them. They’re hampered only by not having advanced chemical dyeing techniques. This drawing, from the Peacock King, is what they’d wear if they could manage those colours.

I was looking at Russian historical garb today, and I’ve noticed a trend: most historical clothing seems to be based on “put on layer after layer of the same basic pattern until you’re warm.” This makes sense: having a summer & winter wardrobe separate of one another is expensive.

Clothing and status:

So the side the shirts close on indicates skilled worker vs. unskilled labor.

Fabric would also be an indication of status: silk is expensive in any world.

Add on to that pants. I’m thinking that pants are worn by those for whom long skirts would get in the way – those who ride, and those who labor manually. So an emperor and a farmer might wear very similar outfits, but the emperor’s silk tunic closes over the right shoulder, and the farmer’s hemp tunic over the left.

I’m still up in the air on embroidery/beading/etc. And hats! Hats are great for warmth. But. I don’t see the modesty issue coming up in quite the same way. I <3 beanies, but if I go with them, we hearken back more and more to China.

ETA: Terminology! Turkish, modern English, any one of the medieval European? Is it a kirtle or a cote or a qipao or a tunica or a liene or a…?

ETA: Qitari.

ETA: Neat site on qipao http://qipao.info/

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